Greencastle, PA

History: The North and the South were increasingly growing farther apart over the issue of slavery.  The Underground Railroad, with many stations along the way, led to freedom for the slaves of the south.  In photography, negatives were invented.  Through the wet plate collodion process, an unlimited amount of photographs could be reproduced without having to take multiple photographs.

Fashion: Skirts continued to get even wider.  The steel cage hoopskirt was invented.  Pagoda sleeves attached to tight sloping shoulder bodices.  Ladies often had two bodices that were interchangeable with the same skirt.  One was for evening and one for informal occasions.  Bodices closed in the front with hooks and eyes.  Fringe, soutache braid, and ribbons were used for trims.  Popular materials were gauzy “tissue” dresses, tartan plaids, changeable taffeta, and brocades – all because they were favorites of Queen Victoria. The founder of haute couture, Charles Frederick Worth, began designing for individuals in the early 1850’s and by 1858, he and his partner, Otto Bobergh, had their own shop in Paris.  Bloomers were designed by Elizabeth Smith Miller, but because they were widely promoted by Amelia Bloomer, editor of The Lily, they would be forever known by her last name.

Hats:  The brim of the circular hat receded to about the middle of the head.  Fancy trims of gathered tulle, artificial flowers, and plumes were used for decoration.

ca. 1855 Bonnet of drab colored cloth with all original trim including the strings which are Jacquard woven. 

The bonnet would be worn off the face, looking almost as if it were falling off the back of the head.  This became a favorite subject of cartoonists who enjoyed satirizing the extremes of fashion.