Greencastle, PA

History:  Architectural marvels appeared such as The Brooklyn Bridge and the first skyscraper in Chicago.  Trolley systems were prevalent in many towns and bicycles were all-the-craze.  George Eastman introduced the Kodak camera and roll film and revolutionized the industry.  The ordinary person would be his own photographer by the end of the century although dry glass plate negatives would still be used until about World War I.  In 1872 Montgomery Ward printed the first mail-order catalog.  Sears Roebuck didn’t publish their first catalog until 1892.  In 1881 President Garfield was assassinated.  Scandal rocked the presidential campaign of 1882 when there were references to Grover Cleveland’s illegitimate child.  Labor unions were formed to fight the long and dangerous working conditions of the common laborer.  Jack the Ripper terrorized England.  Nelly Bly, a New York World  reporter, went around the world in 72 days.

Fashion: The slim silhouette of the ‘70’s continued into the early ‘80’s.  By mid decade the persistent bustle made its revival appearing bigger than ever – narrower and lower it protruded straight out.  The bustle grew smaller by the end of the decade and the skirt draperies disappeared.  As the bustle decreased in size the size of the upper arm sleeve increased.  Anything Oriental was very popular during this time period. The Geisha ware is on loan from Evelyn Pensinger.

Hats:  Hats grew larger with taller crowns and/or wider brims.  Brims were turned up on all sides in different combinations.  The fedora and boater (sailor) were worn for informal occasions such as cycling, lawn tennis, archery, croquet, and skating.  A little top hat decorated with tulle or a silk scarf was popular for riding.  Using rustic, natural decorations continued into this decade.

ca. 1880–1883 Fancy straw “poke-style” bonnet with original trims.

It features a nosegay of naturalistic field flowers and Jacquard woven silk ribbon that resembles lace overlay.  The interior is lined with a pleating of harmonizing brown fabric.

ca. 1880 This hat is made of colors and textures found in nature. 

The feeling of mossy rock and realistic chrysanthemums is very successful!  The surprise is the back of the hat that it is covered with mossy buds.

ca. 1885 A bonnet of ribbed silk and velvet made to match a wedding gown worn in the 1880’s. 

It has no trim other than the manner in which the materials are handled – gathered and folded.

ca. 1885 A tall, top-hat style of rough straw. 

This post-boy (British mailman) hat of the mid 1880’s exemplifies the naturalistic style even further – dried raffia, poppies and a wheat-colored ribbon help to carry the impression.  The hair style worn at the time would have been a twist and bun worn high on the head.

ca. 1885–1888 A hat of similar style to the last one.

While the first one would have been worn straight on the head, giving extreme height to the wearer, this second one has more angular lines and a softer look due to the brim and the plume.  Note the rusticated foliage.