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History:
‘Alexander’s Ragtime Band’ could be heard playing on Victrolas and everyone
danced new dances like the fox trot, turkey trot, bunny hug, lame duck,
chicken scratch, and the kangaroo dip. Silent movies were shown in
Nickelodeon theaters – it cost a nickel to get in. WWI began in 1914 and
the Edwardian Era ended. Thousands of American “dough” boys were shipped
“Over There.” The war ended on November 11, 1918. More women than ever
joined the work force, wore makeup, smoked cigarettes, drove automobiles,
flew airplanes, and marched for the right to vote! Prohibition was ushered
in after the signing of the Volstead Act of 1919.
Fashion: At the beginning of the
decade, skirts were still floor length. The higher, looser waistline saw
the end of the corset, but the hemline was still narrow. The remedy was
slits which then made it easier to walk and dance. More emphasis was placed
on shoes, boots and hose. Bodices and blouses sported collarless V and
square necklines called “pneumonia” blouses. This was the last decade of
complicated construction of inner bodices consisting of countless snaps
and/or hooks and eyes. Hemlines were five to eight inches above the floor
in 1916! The waistline was about normal and looser. The bobbed “Dutch Boy”
hairstyle came in along with the permanent wave.
Hats: The Gainsborough and large picture
hat were popular at the beginning of the decade but smaller, taller hats
were soon the rage. The second half of the decade, saw small hats with
vertical trims. The picture hat with a wide brim but smaller crown was
flattering. Wire basket frames were last used in this decade. The
forerunner of the cloche hat of the ‘20’s made it’s appearance in 1917. |
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ca. 1910–1920 Brown
plush hat with rolled brim, higher at the front.
The front decoration is of
jet beading, moiré silk puffs, and two opposing plumes of black cockerel
feathers. Unfortunately, the original lining is no longer inside the hat
and clues as to the maker are gone with it. |
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